Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
